Monday, June 25, 2012

From Minsk via Vitebsk, Polotsk, Grodno, Bialystok and Kaunas to Vilnius



Hi Friends,

as I am writing this I am sitting in my motorhome at a camping area in Vilnius/Lithuania. So indeed I’m on my way again, or better the trip has started seriously.

So last Monday I had a last lesson with my teacher, in this motorhome as my motorcycle battery had been flat again and I needed to get it checked where it was bought. It turns out that I have (again) an electric problem, something is draining the battery… I went to Yamaha in Bialystok, but they said it could be a lot of things and all they could do was check the switch assembly for moisture which they did and dried and asked me to keep the bike out of the rain… great Italian quality as these bikes are made by Malaguti in Italy and Yamaha sticks their label on them… But at least it has a kick starter (I know why I picked this bike as none of the others has that feature anymore).

After a very nice sort of farewell dinner with Vadim Matiushkin and a short visit at a joint military cemetery where apparently Russian and German soldiers of the WW I were put to rest I went home to do my preparations for departure to be finished the next morning. Well, it took me till afternoon till finally everything was ‘ship-shape’. I stopped by at the bank to give back the apartment keys and even was able to thank and say farewell to Sergej Kostyuchenko and Wladimir Dedioul and Ivan. They all made my stay so pleasant and comfortable! So it looks like ‘I’ll be back’…

As I was that much delayed I decided to go directly to Vitebsk. Vadim had pre-warned the local branch manager Oleg Anatolevitch Gladyshuk who spoke quite good German and met me as I arrived together with the manager of a hotel (a Priorbank customer) who insisted that I stay there. The following morning I was picked up for an extensive city tour including the bank, the war monument and various churches some of which had to be reconstructed as they were blown up after the war by the Soviets. W also went to the summer house of Ilya Repin. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilya_Repin A lovely peaceful place, but again, a reconstruction as his daughter in 1930 after his death sold (had to sell?) the house  which had been designed by him (for fire wood to the peasants). He also had preferred to stay in Finland and not return to the USSR… Also After lunch we went to the birth place of Mark Chagall. As he had decided not to accept an invitation to return to his homeland the then government refused a big gift of his works that he offered which is the reason that today not a single work of him can be seen in BY. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marc_Chagall

My next destination was Polotsk, about an hour from Vitebsk and there I was received by the local branch manager Nina Nikolayevna Drosdova with the daughter Tanja, acting as interpreter, who normally is working at Priorbank Minsk in the Credit Department. They immediately proceeded to show me the very interesting orthodox cloister of St. Sophia, the local Saint. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polotsk  One of the nuns even showed us the old church founded by her and now under restoration, a sight that ‘normal tourists’ would not be able to see. After that I was told to leave my ‘Datcha’ at a parking lot, gather what I needed for the night and we proceeded to a hunting lodge (correct: also a customer) where we had dinner and then I had to be an overnight guest of the owner of that place very nicely located at on of the many lakes of BY.
The next morning they picked me up again and showed me the city which is the oldest in BY and now again has some nice and interesting sights. Again, some of the churches, especially one of the two cathedrals, had to be reconstructed, the other one facing the main square can’t be reconstructed as the Soviets built a big and ugly apartment block there… At least the Priorbank branch is in a nicely restored building right next to the main square… As I wanted to sort out the electric problem of the Yamaha at the dealer in Bialystok and also needed to pick up my second lock I had to head towards Poland, and as fast as possible as Vadim also ‘organized’ the branch manager of Grodno to help me jump the cue at the border, but that would work only before 7pm. So I drove as quickly as possible which resulted eventually in a part of my bicycle carrier breaking. When I tried to fix it provisionally a police car stopped and checked my papers, but again, no problem or fine… The border crossing still took 2 hours despite the cue jumping.

I proceeded to Bialystok (abt 60kms) and found a place near the university to spend the night. The next morning I did my errands including stocking up on supples and at 3 met my dear friend from Raiffeisen Bank Poland in Wrozlaw Teresa Kacniarz and her husband Wieslaw. She had just arrived for the Golden Wedding Anniversary of her parents. We had a nice chat and dinner at her sisters where also her nephew looked at my computer and couldn’t find anything wrong. But now it works better although he insists that he didn’t do anything… In the evening we went to town and watched Germany against Greece.

Saturday morning after some more shopping I set off towards Vilnius/Lithuania via Kaunas which was a nice and easy drive. In Kaunas I just arrived in time when Napoleon crossed the river into Russia, well, the reenactment of that event of 1812. It was just finished and I saw the Russian and French soldiers just coming back from the battle ground and settling down for their apparently well deserved beers. Yes, and I saw Napoleon too, he looked a bit grumpy, maybe because he had some idea that this thing won’t end as planned… Kaunas is a nice town but her remaining churches are not all restored yet. Many old buildings have been restored but there still will be a lot more to do… Kaunas, like in other places in Lithuania also has the doubtful fame to have started killing Jews even before the Nazis arrived…

As I wanted to spend more time in Vilnius and as this camping ground seems to be nicer I proceeded the 100kms and found the camping place and settled in. I took the Yamaha, got it (kick-) started as the battery was flat again, and went to explore the town. Vilnius has about 700000 inhabitants (before the war abt 500000 about half of which were Jews). It reminds me of Salzburg because of the many churches and the fact that the city is built on several hills. As I didn’t have a proper map I promptly got lost on the way back and had to ‘hire’ a police cat that I found at a gas station… They were really nice and it was the first time in my life that I enjoyed following a police car…

After a comfortable sleep and doing my laundry, cleaning the Datcha I drove to town for the ‘real’ sightseeing. To sum it up: this town is worth a visit. It has charm and they did nice restorations of most of the churches and hotels and food are nice. I took many pictures but won’t bother you with all of them… By the way, it’s now 0130 and I won’t include any pictures today but will do that most likely tomorrow… I’m simply too tired now…

Oh yes, before I forget: I won’t go to Kaliningrad! I just read in my travel guide that it would be a waste of time as hardly anything of old Königsberg is left and the Russians had done a thorough job of redesigning the city…. I frankly also don’t fancy spending about 5 or more hours getting in and out of that enclave. This will happen anyway soon when I want to go to St. Peterburg…

So I’m putting this online because I know that by now you expect the news and I don’t want to disappoint you. Please stay well and tuned…

No comments:

Post a Comment